Macro in the Studio

Macro in the Studio

By definition (according to wiki)
"Macrophotography is close-up photography, usually of very small subjects. Classically a macrophotograph is one in which the size of the subject on the negative is greater than life size. However in modern use it refers to a finished photograph of a subject at greater than life size. The ratio of the subject size on the film plane (or image sensor plane) to the actual subject size is known as the reproduction ratio. Likewise, a macro lens is classically one lens capable of reproduction ratios greater than 1:1, although it now refers to any lens with a large reproduction ratio, despite rarely exceeding 1:1."

In the studio macro photography comes up a lot when dealing with jewellery and other small subject matter. The equipment used is as important as the lighting. While zoom lenses have grown in popularity as a one lens solve all solution, when it comes to macro photography I have found them to fall short. This is one area where macro lenses really make a difference. These lenses are optimized for high reproduction ratios. Most modern macro lenses can focus continuously to infinity as well, using complex focusing mechanisms that alter the optical formula. In most cases these lenses provide excellent optical quality when used for normal photography, although a macro lens may be optimized to provide its best performance at its highest magnification. True macro lenses, such as the Nikon 60 mm f/2.8 ED, can achieve higher magnification than life size, enabling photography of the structure of small insect eyes, snowflakes, and other minuscule objects. These lenses also have a much smaller minimum aperature (usually around f32) to help overcome some of the shallow depth of field issues.  My personal favourites are :

Nikon 60mm 2.8 macro lens & Nikon 105mm 2.8 macro lens

I have not had a chance to try the new Nikon 85mm 2.8 shift lense and it is on my list as it would bring some of the advantages of large format cameras into perspective and more importantly focus control.

Macro in the studio has been completely revolutionized by digital technology. When film was the medium all the images were set up and captured to the final outcome required. An example of this would be a group of rings or jewellery. Pre digital era the group would be set up in one image and captured as one image. There is nothing wrong with this approach and it is still used with diigtal cameras. At times it is desireable to have one complete image rather than a composite of parts. I have set up and photographed images with over 40 or 50 jewellery items. How the shoot is handled is the same regardless of the medium, film / diigtal. The downside to large group images is the time in involved in setting up the image and it is instantly obsolete should one item become unavailalbe. What I have found is more often the flexibility of having all the items captured individually has become more desireable. With individually captured items groups can be assembled and changed without requiring a full days set up on a complex group shot. When items are captured individually each item can be lit and set up specifically to echance and meet its requirments. This also creates an ongoing library of items that can be dropped into images as they are needed.  The downside is the final image does not have the same natural flow a group shot would have.

Here are a couple of examples of macro images. The first couple are in the ear hearing aids. These are very small units and measure just over 1cm from top to bottom. The products captured were actual production units not oversized photo mock ups. I have not seen the need to create 2 or 3X life size units for photography. In my opinion nearly everything can be captured without costly photo mock ups. Smaller items may require combining multiple captures focused at varying points to ensure the final image is sharp from front to back. Even wiith large format lenses where the aperature could be closed down to f256 depth of field is still an issue. With digital this is easily resolved through multiple captures.

The jewellery images below were part of a large retail flyer in which the same images will be used on various layouts throughout the year/s. The rings in the top image are a composite of 4 exposures of different focal points to ensure the rings are sharp from the top of the diamonds down to the bottom of the shank. The second image being much shallower was captured in one image.

Here is an example of a ring grouping and below it a large group of jewellery. The large group can take 2-4 hours in set up time alone. With more complex set ups like the second image it is normal to leave the shot set up and in place until it has gotten final approval. When an image has to fit amongst type and other layout parameters it is nice to leave the set in place until everything has been checked and approved. Not always possible under time constraints.

The second image shows a grouping that was set up and captured as a group. The advantage to this is the image being captured in one shot and the reflections have a more natural feel and flow. The biggest disadvantage is that it is impossible to light any one item perfectly and in many or most cases properly. The lighting becomes a compromise.

When each of the items are captured individually, they lighting is perfected for each item. This enhances each item although the disadvantage being added computer time close cropping (c/c) every product. The advantage being every item remains fluid in the layout and each one can be moved as needed or replaced if required. The final image below is a composite of individual items all captured separately.